New Zealand is a land of contrasts. In comparison to our “homeland” of the United States it is literally on the other side of the world; made up of two islands isolated in the South Pacific. So when it’s summer in the U.S. it’s winter in New Zealand but contrary to popular belief the water goes down the drain the same direction in both places.
New Zealand is closer to the Antarctic than almost any other country on the planet. Yet it has tropical forests and warm, pristine ocean beaches. There are deep volcanic craters as well as the Southern Fjords which feature some of the highest mountain peaks in the Southern Hemisphere. It’s populated by sheep as well as penguins! Its closest neighbor, Australia which lies some 1,500 miles across the Tasman Sea, has a multitude of legendarily dangerous land and sea creatures whereas New Zealand has one venomous spider and not a single snake. The primary language in New Zealand is English, however most towns and cities have exotic sounding names from the native Maori (pronounced mao-ree) language such as Tauranga and Ngongotaha…two of the places in which we’ve lived.
Talk about diversity! If one were so inclined one could scuba dive, catch a trout, abseil an enormous cave, scale a mountain, walk on a glacier and ski down some of the highest slopes in the world all within 24 hours or so. Then they could lie on a deserted beach, soak up the sun and recover.
The contrasts are not limited to New Zealand’s geography. The people of Aotearoa (the native name meaning “land of the long white cloud”) are some of the friendliest in the world, but they are difficult to get to know. However once you’ve made a friend, they are your friend for life. The current leader, Prime Minister Helen Clark, is considered to be a liberal. However “political correctness” is often frowned upon. Taxes are some of the highest in the world. Yet first-class health care and medicine costs about 1/3 that in the U.S. Less than 25% of the population attends a formal church on a regular basis but more than 76% believe in God and consider themselves’ spiritual beings. The country boasts that it is “clean and green” but there are very few pollution control laws on the books. As of this writing New Zealand’s unemployment rate is one of the lowest in the developed world, second only to that of South Korea. However wages average about 65% of those in America.
The list could go on, but I think you get the picture. New Zealand is a wonderful country full of beauty and wonder…and many differences. It is a land of uncertainty seeking a place on the world stage while still trying to define itself to its own people. It welcomes immigrants with open arms, as long as you fit their current, somewhat strict and often changing profile of who would make a good New Zealand citizen.
My wife Sandy and I were fortunate enough to have immigrated to New Zealand from the U.S. exactly three years ago this month. We met the requirements to become Permanent Residents and now can come and go as we please. We recently returned to the U.S. for family reasons but may end up retiring in New Zealand one day. For all of its contrasts…it’s that good.
As mentioned, New Zealand is made up of two good-sized islands. Their total size equals that of the U.S. states of Colorado or Oregon. By coincidence the population is about the same as Oregon’s and slightly less than Colorado’s with about 4 million people living in New Zealand. A majority of the “Kiwi’s” as they call themselves are of European decent. Most of today’s immigrants hail from the U.K. It’s fairly easy to for them to qualify as New Zealand is still part of Her Majesty’s Commonwealth. However more recent immigration has resulted in a growing East Indian, and Asian population as well as many South Africans.
About 17% of the country’s population is made up of the peoples that first landed in New Zealand about 1,000 years ago, the Maori. The Maori are the descendents of Pacific Islanders (primarily Polynesians). Maori (also the name of their native language) is spoken quite frequently today. There is a television channel dedicated to the culture with most programming delivered in Maori. They share a similar history to native Hawaiians including being subjugated by the British in the 18th Century. There is still some friction between the Maori and other locals which are called “Pakeha” (meaning pale skin Gods with eyes in the back of their heads - a comment on the way the British rowed their longboats, facing backwards) but in general everyone gets along. Political correctness is not as well-defined (or appreciated) in New Zealand so there are still some vestiges of racism which most Americans (and a majority of Kiwi’s of all backgrounds) might find uncomfortable.
With all of that in mind Sandy and I truly enjoyed New Zealand. It wasn’t a perfect place to live, but then where is? The highlights are too numerous to mention here but if we had to pick a few they would be the warm and friendly people, rugby (a passionate subject for a whole other article), the landscape and the climate. When I say “climate” I mean overall living conditions more so than the weather, although by most standards the weather is excellent as well! Crime is low (most police officers don’t have a need to carry guns) and the cost of living isn’t too bad. Our seaside home would certainly cost twice as much or more in the U.S.
To say the country’s landscape is stunning would be an understatement by any measure. As mentioned, there are so many contrasts that finding them all in a place the size of a small U.S. state is nothing short of a miracle of some nature. If you are an “outdoors” type you will certainly love New Zealand. Whatever your open-air passion it can be realized here; many activities of which you’d never find elsewhere because the liability insurance would be cost prohibitive!
Being that the country is made up of two elongated islands, everyone lives within about 70 miles of the ocean. Like their Aussie cousins, a majority of the population live along the coastline. The east coast which faces the Pacific Ocean is the most popular as the climate tends to be more temperate. However there are many magnificent interior regions featuring rolling green hills, soaring mountains and crystal blue lakes as well. If tropical forests teaming with feathered wild life are your cup of tea, look no further. Or if you feel the need to scale glacier ice thousands of years old, there are several to choose from in New Zealand.
The North Island claims its own “wine country” which produces international award winning varietals including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends. Driving through the countryside you’ll see what seems like hundreds of miles of white fences surrounding tiny as well as mammoth farms. Kiwi farmers are well-known for two major agricultural endeavors; sheep and kiwi fruit. Sheep outnumber humans by more than 12 to 1. Jokes about sheep, sheep farmers and their relationships not withstanding, New Zealand delivers tons of some of the finest wool to the world annually. The kiwi fruit which is the remnant of the Chinese gooseberry on steroids provides a good deal of the country’s employment opportunities not to mention a tasty treat. Traveling around the country you will also find large deer and alpaca ranches. The cattle and dairy industries are quite prominent as well and beef is a Kiwi dietary mainstay. New Zealanders eat more ice cream per capita than anyone else in the world.
One of the major complaints from the locals is that the best of their products are shipped out of the country leaving sub-standard fare for them to eat. However we’ve found that New Zealand raised meat and agricultural products are far superior to those found most anywhere else. Cattle, lamb, chickens and other assorted livestock can be found happily wandering the countryside, eating grasses and other non-genetically modified food stuffs as God intended. Organic farms are quite popular too. Venture into most rural areas and you’ll find dozens of unattended roadside stands selling every fresh vegetable, fruit and citrus product one could hope for, all for cents on the grocery store dollar. Drop a few coins in the little lock box and half your week’s shopping is done!
Sandy and I were fortunate enough to have traveled through several areas on the North and South Islands. All of the cities and towns that are high on the various tourist lists are truly well worth the time to visit and enjoy. Remember to bring a camera with lots of film or memory cards.
On the list of great places to visit you’ll find the largest lake in the country located in just about the center of the North Island; Lake Taupo (pronounced “tao-poe” by some and the native “toe-paw” by others). It is a beautiful area reminiscent of some Austrian lakeside communities. Taupo is the last vestige of a violent volcanic event that took place about 26,000 years ago. The former caldera is now filled with deep, azure blue waters covering more than 600 square kilometers. Besides it’s dramatic beauty, casual and fine dinning restaurants you’ll have the opportunity to bungee jump 250+ feet over the Waikato River (which I did and lived to tell the tale to anyone that will listen). Taupo is also home to the largest wine store in the country – and one of the biggest we’ve ever visited – Scenic Cellars; located on Lake Taupo’s waterfront. The street level store is large by most New Zealand retail standards and features local as well as international fare; however that’s only the beginning. The secret is found in not one but two underground cellars as large as the store above and as impressive as any France has to offer. Even if you’re not big on wine (and even better if you are) ask for the “grand tour” if you’re fortunate enough to run into Ian, the proprietor.
Another of our favorite places is the city of Christchurch which is located on the Pacific Coast near the center of the South Island. Christchurch is the regional capital of the Canterbury area of New Zealand and is said to be the “most English city in the world” outside of the U.K. It will indeed satisfy Anglophiles with the Christchurch Anglican Cathedral, Avon River and the ultra-gothic Canterbury University. Although it has its roots in early English settlements, most of the city has a decidedly Kiwi perspective. Unlike most New Zealand locales the city is nearly flat making it a wonderful place to walk and ride bikes three seasons of the year. (It does get its share of snow in the winter.) The large Botanical Garden with it’s spectacular flowers and unusual “trees from around the world” collection is not to be missed. Restored, multicolored cable cars wind through the downtown area and offer a terrific “get to know our town” conductor orchestrated experience for first-time visitors. Sandy and I enjoyed the “Ghost Walk”, a (sort of) scary tour into the dark recesses of Christchurch’s Gothic Arts Centre and former parochial school. Held on various nights the “curator” tells stories of (deceased) family members and former students that met an unfortunate end who often drop by, perhaps looking for resolution of their unhappy family life, or forgiveness of their trespasses against others. Be sure and bring a friend. Boo!
For those that simply enjoy relaxing and viewing the countryside, New Zealand has thousands of miles of roads passing through unspoiled land that will certainly take your breath away. Outside of the cities most roads are two lanes with a few passing lanes thrown in. The national speed limit is 100 kilometers per hour or about 60 mph with many areas posted much lower, so don’t plan on hurrying to your destination. However the old adage, “It’s not the destination but the journey” couldn’t be more applicable than in New Zealand. Mind you they drive on the left and always look right!
There is so much to see and so much to do in New Zealand that it’s impossible to put everything into one or even a dozen articles. Suffice it to say that whether you’re planning on a couple of weeks, a month or longer visit, you’ll still have plenty of things to do and see when you return the next time…and you will!
 |
|
 |
|
