(Photo opposite: Hobbit Holes) After traveling around New Zealand for nearly two months with Stray, www.straytravel.co.nz, my trip is about to come to an end. I’ve just finished doing Lake Taupo and I have two major destinations on my list before I say good-bye to paradise. Both of these places are Lord of the Rings related, and although I’ve read all the books and seen all the movies, I’m not a crazy, overly obsessed fan of the trilogy. A fan, yes, and perhaps even more so now that I have experienced the scenery that makes the movies so spectacular.

HOBBITON

I am one of those movie making obsessed fans though – I love to go behind the scenes and see how movies are made. So before leaving the Taupo area, I have to make a visit to Hobbiton. www.hobbitontours.com The farm used for the Hobbiton set is near Matamata, a small town about one and a half hour from Taupo. I’ve dragged my mom along for this tour, even though she’s never seen the films or read the books.

Within a few minutes of the tour beginning, I know that my mom and I are going to enjoy the experience immensely. I don’t think it’s going to matter that she’s not familiar with the series; even if you’ve never seen LOTR, the info that our guide starts off with would likely blow your mind. Imagine simply being at home one day when New Line Cinema knocks on your door and asks if you would mind if they used your farm to film part of the greatest movie trilogies of all time.

During the short bus ride that brings us to the Alexander Farm, the guide continues to tell us facts that I find fascinating. LOTR is a big deal, and the way the filming was approached only highlights this. The Alexanders had to sign a confidentiality agreement, no one could know what was going on at the farm even though it took nearly ten months of preparation to get the “set” looking just right. The government even elected the area a “no-fly” zone so that curious onlookers couldn’t find out what was going on.

As our guide is chatting, I’m so enthralled with what he has to say that I nearly forget to look outside at the magnificent landscape. I can see rolling green hills for miles; it looks as though they’re covered with green carpet. The vibrant grass hardly looks real. In the distance, small mountains meet fluffy clouds that eventually lead to the stunning blue sky. I can see why Peter Jackson wanted to film his movie here. The land seems untouched; it’s pure Middle Earth.

When we pull up to the farm, we’re on a hill, which gives us a bird’s eye view of the area. The farm is still running today and is home to about 12,000 sheep. They dot the green hills and remind us that we are not just visiting a movie set, but a genuine New Zealand farm. Our guide points out a few locations where pivotal scenes in the film were shot, and then we’re off to explore what remains of the set, up close and personal.

The majority of the set has been dismantled, but 17 of the 37 Hobbit Holes still remain, and we spend a good deal of time popping in and out of the holes and posing for photos. If you’re not familiar with the series and its characters, Hobbits are a small people, and everything was designed to make the normal sized actors appear smaller. As wander about Hobbiton, our guide keeps us reeling with stories from the set. He tells us how the plants and vegetables in the gardens were injected with hormones to make them grow larger than normal, dwarfing the actors. He explains that beeswax was kept burning in the Hobbit Holes to make it appear as if a fire was keeping the inhabitants warm. In reality, the interior scenes were filmed in a studio and the Hobbit Holes are empty.

One of the most memorable scenes that takes place in Hobbiton is Bilbo Baggins’ birthday party. In this scene, a huge tree, nicknamed the Party Tree, stands tall and proud next to the lake where the partygoers frolic. Today, on a branch halfway up the massive tree, a lone red ribbon flaps in the wind. It’s still there from the filming of this scene. Our guide encourages us to dance on the field beneath the Party Tree and my mom and I happily oblige as the others look on. Pass up a chance to dance on the very soil where Bilbo Baggins celebrated his birthday? Never. It’s worth the few odd stares.

(Photo opposite: Party Tree) The Hobbit Holes that remain are definitely the most photographed portion of the tour, but photos of what the set looked like are posted around to help you imagine what things would have looked like. Where parts of the set have been torn down, such as the bridges, markers stand to inform you where they stood. It’s easy to close my eyes and imagine the Hobbits rushing around me. I don’t want to give away all the secrets they used in filming here, but trust me; this is a tour worth taking. Even my mom agrees. And it’s not necessary to know anything about the trilogy to enjoy the tour – the scenery and the stories and secrets from the filming transform the Alexander Farm into a magical place.

THE TONGARIRO CROSSING

I wish I could take credit for planning my trip around New Zealand to end with the Tongariro Crossing, but it’s just pure luck that I finish my tour here. Without knowing it, I’ve saved the best for last. Granted, this particular one day hike is all I’ve been hearing about on the backpacker circuit, but you never really know how good something is until you’re able to see for yourself.

The Stray Bus drops us off at the beginning of what is considered New Zealand’s finest one-day walk. I’ve got my backpack jammed full of goodies – food, water and extra clothing, as you never know what sort of weather you might encounter. Luckily, we’ve got clear skies and the sun is shining on my face as I begin the 17-kilometer tramp. (The Tongariro National Park can be closed if the weather is bad).

I’ve been traveling with Stray for my entire two month trek around New Zealand, making new friends, but today, I’ve decided to walk alone. There are plenty of other trampers on the path, so I’m not completely alone, but it seems kind of fitting to take this time to reflect on the amazing experiences I’ve had in this country, and to truly enjoy the remoteness that nature offers. I’m in pretty good shape, but you don’t need to be to complete this walk. It’s classed as medium, and there are a few steeper parts, but most people can complete this walk with little effort.

The hike starts off quite flat as I trek through a vegetated area and even come across a small waterfall. The scenery is stunning, but I know there are much greater things to come so I don’t dawdle. I have a full day’s walk ahead of me, and I’d like to take some time to appreciate the views when I get to the top.

In the distance, I can see the top of Mt. Ngauruhoe rising in the distance. It’s instantly recognizable as the volcano used for Mt. Doom in the Lord of the Rings Trilogy. It’s hard to associate such a dark scene with this incredible landscape; with the sun shining all around the trampers, I feel like we’re closer to paradise than doom.

Just before I reach the base of Mt. Ngauruhoe, I change my mind about this self imposed state of bliss. The Devil’s Staircase, definitely the steepest part of the entire walk, has me feeling like I’m in hell, rather than heaven. It’s steep; I feel like I’m climbing up a sheer wall and the volcanic rocks and loose earth cause me to stumble and slide more than once. I take my time though, and when I finally emerge onto the flat land surrounding the majestic volcano, I realize that every step was worth it.

(Photo opposite: Red Crater) The volcano is conical in shape, with a flattened, uneven top from its last eruption in the late 70’s. White lines run down the side of the gray volcano, flowing from a white patch near the top. Red splotches on the left side give the volcano an otherworldly feel; I imagine that it resembles the surface of the moon. You can climb this volcano at this time of year, December to March, but we don’t have time for the side trip. And, at this point, I’m not sure I have the energy!

I turn left at the base of Mt. Ngauruhoe and head for the Red Crater. My climb isn’t over yet, but even I can see from here that nothing is going to be as challenging as the Devil’s Staircase. After a nice flat path, I reach the next climb, and it’s easy as pie compared to the last steep stretch. The views keep getting better and better too, so much that I hardly notice that I’m out of breath and that my leg is still bleeding from a nasty slip on the Devil’s Staircase.

Every once in a while I look back and get a different view of Mt. Ngauruhoe, but what I see in front of me takes my breath away. As I get higher and higher – both literally and emotionally, I can see what looks like nearly of all New Zealand spread out below me. Looking down and to my right, I’m rewarded with a bird’s eye view of the Red Crater. I don’t get too close to the edge, as the crater drops off suddenly from the walking trail.

A mountain could easily fit in the Red Crater, that’s how huge the hole is. The top of the crater looks as if a million liters of red paint have been dropped onto it. It’s easy to see where the crater gets its name. In the distance, I can see clouds below me, and bits of far off mountain ranges poking up into the sky. New Zealand stretches on forever, and I love every inch of it.

There is still a bit of an incline left, so I stop for some water, snacks and a short rest to restore my energy before I push on. When I arrive at the top of the Red Crater, I’m greeted with a view that I will never forget. It’s so spectacular that it brings me to tears. I’m not embarrassed to tell you this; it’s just that I have never seen anything so beautiful before, and I doubt I ever will. I think it helps that I’ve had to work hard to get here; this view is nature’s ultimate reward.

Behind me is the Red Crater; from here I can see where the red earth meets the bottom of the crater. To my right is the Blue Lake. A perfectly flat lake of blue water sits nestled in a ridge of rising land. It almost doesn’t belong; it looks too balanced here in this rocky uneven paradise. In front of me, the land dips down steeply to where three shining green lakes lie in wait for the multitude of trampers to descend upon them. I’ve never seen a green like this before; The Emerald Lakes stand out so much in this barren land of brown and gray that I’m slightly worried that they may be a mirage.

(Photo opposite: Emerald Lake) It’s this last view of The Emerald Lakes that brings me to tears again. I sit at the edge of the Red Crater for what must be 30 minutes before I’m ready to move on. My next steps will lead me closer to the magnificent lakes, but up here, looking down on them, I feel like I’m standing on Cloud Nine. Beyond the lakes, the mountains jut up sharply, and again I can see New Zealand reaching out its arms to cover the earth. I’m still up above where the clouds sit, and it’s hard for me to move on. I want to stay here forever.

If I thought going up was tough, I’m in for a severe shock as I start to make my way down towards the Emerald Lakes. It’s steep, and the loose scoria, or volcanic rock, moves underneath my feet. In the end, I find it’s easier to sit on my bottom on slide down. As I get closer to the green water, the smell of sulfur rises to meet my nose.

Up close, the lakes are just as beautiful, and I can see straight down to the bottom through the clear water. I’m nearing the end of my incredible day, and fresh tears fall as I look behind me for one last glimpse of New Zealand’s exemplar of perfection. I can see The Red Crater with Mt. Ngauruhoe in the distance. I have to take a deep breath and force myself to look away.

The rest of the walk is rather uneventful. I have a great view of Lake Taupo and slowly prepare myself for the return to civilization. I feel completely at peace with the world and myself. Only one dismal thought crosses my mind; there are many other walks in the national park, and I wish I had more time to explore. But I will take this experience with me wherever I go. I will never forget coming up to the summit of the Red Crater and taking in the view of the Emerald Lakes. The Tongariro Crossing had surpassed all expectations. I feel blessed that this is how I am going to end my trip around this astounding country. It’s the perfect good-bye.

For a closer look at life overseas, check out my e-book, Watching Clocks Sing in Turkish, detailing the adventure-filled year I spent teaching in Turkey!

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