(Photo opposite: Lago Maggiore) Italy demands your attention with so much to see and do from ancient ruins to breathtaking vistas and wine - it has it all.

Our destination was northern Italy, starting in Piedmont at Lago Maggiore, one of the country’s most picturesque lakes.

We had driven in from Germany via the San Bernadino pass. The roads were all good but in Germany, Switzerland and Austria be prepared for toll payments. In Switzerland, motorway fees are levied simply by vignettes which are available directly at the border or can be bought and paid simply via Internet. Motorists without vignettes (it must be displayed on the windscreen) can incur hefty fines.

Our climb through the Alps took us across the headwaters of some major rivers - glacial green from early spring melt water. The weather was stunning (prior research had shown May and June were the best months in Northern Italy). En route we stopped at garage/restaurants to refuel or have a break and noticed the subtle change from the more sedate establishments on the German- Swiss side to the casual grab a coffee and croissant approach of the Italians.

The Alpine meadows were a verdant green with neat Swiss style houses perched on the slopes. We crossed the Ticino River and began our descent passing through scenic valleys, the farms more rustic and less orderly than in the Alps.

The road along Lago Maggiore was narrow and winding, the air heavy with an afternoon haze, the result of temperature differences between the air and water. Its effect softened the lines between the distant mountains and far shore into a blur of blue. Maggiore is famous for its Borromean islands all but one of which can be visited. Both the Palazzo Borromeo on Isola Bella and the 16th -18th century Palazzo Madre on the isle of Madre provide examples of Italian architecture at its best.

(Photo opposite: Alpine Meadow) We were destined for simpler things and headed for Oggebio, where I had hoped to look up distant relatives. As it turned out Morisetti was a common name in the area, and the one I thought the most likely was out, so we found a parking spot the and sat under the lime trees at the Hemingway café where we soaked up the beauty of the lake and watched Italians at play on the beach below.

Our overnight destination was a little further along in Stresa - busy and very touristy with a string of major hotels overlooking the lake and islands. It was great, beautiful evening light, cobbled streets with al fresco eateries but the service from the tourist bureau and at the restaurants was both unfriendly and slow.

We found a small hotel, Hotel Residence La Luna Nel Porto which I would highly recommend for friendly staff and great accommodation. We even had a small balcony with a view of the lake.

Our next stop was Liguria and the Cinque Terre (5 small villages that cling like limpets to the steep cliff sides). We went via the autostrada to the outskirts of Genoa from where we headed for the coast road. This was extremely narrow, with space for only one car in some sections. We were rapidly finding out that driving in Italy is a sport, and that parking in Europe is a rare commodity.

Surrounded by olive groves, the little town of Zoagli at the water’s edge was our lunch spot. We found a lovely rustic restaurant with outdoor seating and indulged ourselves along with the locals in spaghetti and pesto.

The main piazza was dominated by a railway bridge the arches of which spanned the town and separated it from the beach. Originally constructed in 1865 it was destroyed during WWII and subsequently rebuilt.

Its pebble beach was popular with families but for those who wanted to find a quiet inlet there was a coastal walkway with access to little rocky coves, where crystal clear waters beckoned.

We spent two nights at the B&B Giardino Degli Angeli, a delightful establishment run along eco friendly principles by aromatherapist and author Luciano Cognola.

The rooms were restful and equipped with aromatic dispensers. Breakfast was served on the verandah – it was great and ideally placed for exploring the Cinque Terre.

Dinner comprised salami and cheese from the village and a bottle of chianti. Luciano brought out a tray of expresso coffee to round off the meal.

(Photo opposite: Manarola) Next morning we headed for Monterossa the first of the Cingue Terre villages from where it was possible to buy a day pass (€12.50 pp) for the ferry which sailed between the towns. The alternatives would have been the train or the walk across the top of the cliffs between the villages.

The boat trip was a good option as temperatures were in the mid 30s, also there were great views of the villages from the sea. First stop was Riomaggiore so named because the river Maggiore runs through it. Narrow streets led from the harbour boxed in by terracotta, pink and orange multi-storeyed homes with washing hung on verandahs and window boxes adding an additional splash of colour.

Although out of school holidays the streets buzzed with tourists. Fortunately there were not loads of souvenir shops, as Cinque Terre is a World Heritage site. What makes the villages and surrounding landscape so unique is that it was crafted not by nature but by humans, who over a thousand years or more have transformed the steep mountainsides into cultivated terraces. They physically carried rocks up the hillsides on their shoulders to build thousands of kilometres of dry stone walls.

The beauty of Cinque Terre is without a doubt its history, being able to ditch your car and walk (or take the train or ferry) between the villages and drinking the DOC wine of Manarola a blend of local varieties vermentino and albarola. It was gold in colour, crisp and quite delicious.

Travel Tips:

Useful website: http://www.travel-swiss.co.uk/passes-motorway-vignette/vignette.html

If you want fresh bread buy it early in the day or you will have to wait until the second batch (in our case around 4.30pm)

* More Articles on Living in Italy
* Real Estate in Italy
* Banks in Italy - Worldwide Banking Directory
* Universities in Italy - Colleges & Universities listed by Country
* Embassies and Consulates of Italy
* Hospitals in Italy - Worldwide Hospital Directory