Setting out from Brisbane we headed south into north east New South Wales with no definite destination in mind.

What we found were long sandy beaches and a lush pastoral inland. New South Wales presented a totally different landscape to that found in Queensland.We were travelling between Christmas and New Year, which for exploring the coast was disastrous as it was choked with fellow tourists.

Not having booked accommodation we were prepared to rough it and had taken a tent, even this turned out to be no guarantee as the campsites were full – so be warned book in advance on high days and holidays!

We considered ourselves fortunate to get two beds in a dorm at the Lennox Head youth hostel run by friendly owner and manager Graeme and his wife Anna.

We made an early start and enjoyed a walk along Seven Mile Beach where dog walkers and lifeguards were already out. A bonus was the sighting of two Brahminy kites, one of which caught a fish from the shallows.

Before heading inland we visited the Cape Byron lighthouse, perched on a rocky headland 100 metres above the sea. Fairly steep steps lead down to the point, but it’s worth the walk – best not tackled in the heat of the day.

The lighthouse, one of the country’s most powerful, marked Australia’s most easterly tip.

Judging by the number of runners and joggers puffing up the steps the “lighthouse route” is a popular training route. We felt it worked off the previous evening’s Italian meal.

By the time we headed out of Byron Bay inland there was already bumper to bumper traffic, so we were pleased to see a relatively traffic free road ahead.

The north eastern hinterland of New South Wales is characterised by rolling hills, rocky outcrops and narrow roads which meander among the many national parks.

Along the way are little villages like Uki, from where you can see Mount Warning, which gives its name to a nearby national park.

Mount Warning is significant to Aboriginal people, as in traditional mythology it extends back to the dreamtime. Its Aboriginal name ‘Wollumbin,’ means ‘fighting chief of the mountains,’

Uki, although small had an interesting book shop, where some gems could be found.

Having been caught without accommodation I’d booked in advance at a village called Nimbin, where thanks to a cancellation I’d got a double room at the local youth hostel.

We had no idea what we were going to find at Nimbin but it turned out that it was the Hemp capital of Australia ……… far out!!!.

It was extremely hot and much of the town’s population was chillin’ in the local. The Nimbin hotel had been revamped in stages demarcated by where there was or wasn’t aircon. In the front part of the pub were banks of TVs so the betting fraternity could watch their choice. Channels included the dogs, the horses and various matches, in fact anything you could bet on. Overall there was a profound year end feeling of mellowness.

Having slaked our thirst we drove off to find the hostel just out of town and up a dirt track among the hills.

On checking in the manager Chris informed us a New Year party was in the offing. Everyone was to supply a plate of food for communal consumption and their own drinks.

After dumping our stuff we were in the pool surrounded by tropical plants. It was stunning. The few people we met were all very friendly. Guests comprised mostly passing backpackers. We were late with our contribution for dinner as we were still on Queensland time which was to our advantage when it came to seeing in the New Year which arrived an hour early according to our time.

The party itself was good; the music supplied by locals, a mix of professionals and serious amateurs was laid back. Manager Chris drummed up a fashion parade of guys dressed as dolls which proved an unexpected and hilarious cabaret. Thanks to all the guys who were sporting enough to give it a go!

By the time we were in bed it was much cooler so we slept like logs. Getting up early the next day we were rewarded by the sight of Nimbin rocks bathed in the first light of the day. Really beautiful, and a sacred site to Aboriginal people living in the area the rocks are of volcanic origin and estimated to be 20 million years old.

The village also boasts a museum showcasing its connection to hippiedom, which started about 23 years ago when it was host to the Aquarius Festival which focused on alternative lifestyles.

Unfortunately we did not have the time to explore The Hemp Emporium or purveyors of organic foods and crafts, but it’s so pretty and interesting that we will return, most likely booking in again at the Nimbin Rox YHA which offered a variety of accommodation including a tepee overlooking rolling hills.

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