Carnival 2010: February 12th until February 16th
If you’ve never been to Carnival and you know how to have a good time, then you should celebrate Panamanian Carnival. Panama’s Carnival is not as big as Carnival in Rio, New Orleans or Trinidad; that’s why I think it’s such a great place to celebrate Carnival: you can travel across the country in little time and find plenty of different places to celebrate without getting lost in the crowd. This article is just a little guide to help those who plan to celebrate Carnival in Panama; it’s a guide to places you might want to sleep in, eat in, or see during Carnival celebrations. Enjoy Carnival 2010.
Places to Stay:
During Carnival it’s important you stay in a hotel that has a pool and bar. Carnival this year is in February - the hottest month in Panama, so you’ll want to be cool.
Intercontinental Hotel: The hotel is right on Avenida Balboa and looks straight out over the Bay of Panama. The prices are not cheap; this is one of the most expensive hotels in the city. The hotel rooms are ok; your standard business hotel quality, but the pool area is very nice. Pool is great and there is a bar nearby. My biggest complaint with the Intercontinental is that it’s a little cold on atmosphere and the rooms are very standard fare.
Marriott: Very expensive with nice clean rooms and a pool. Nice hotel, but nothing special.
Sheraton: Nice pool area but the rooms are again very standard and the bar and casino are decent.
Le Meridien Panama: Le Meridien is a new hotel in Panama and is located right on Avenida Balboa.
Hotel Casco Antiguo Considered to be one of the best hotels in the city. Hotel Casco Antiguo is located in the old French section of Panama City.
Hotel Roma: Medium priced hotel with decent rooms and a pool on the roof. This is one of the lesser known hotels in the City and last time I stayed in the Roma it was fine. Restaurant is average and the place is friendly.
Hotel Parador: Nice medium-priced hotel with a pool on the roof and decent rooms. Drinks are decent at the bar and the food is ok.
Hotel Cristal Suites: Good place for Carnival. Again decent room with a nearby pool.
Hotel Montreal: Very cheap hotel with pool on the roof. This hotel was popular with U.S. GI’s when they were stationed in Panama.
Hotel Ideal: Super cheap and sleazy. But has a decent pool and the hamburgers and fries with a beer by the pool is worth it.
Playa Bonita: If you have the cash, this resort on Kobbe Beach, just 25 minutes from the city is a very nice place to stay. Good rooms and pools: food is all right and the drinks are very good at the bar.
Inn On The Canal: The Inn on the Canal is located in the former Canal Zone in the small town of La Boca. This is a small Bed & Breakfast that has basic rooms for a decent price.
Amador Ocean View: This hotel is located on the Causeway; the Causeway is a water break that extends out into the Bay of Panama. This hotel has great views of both the Panama Canal and Panama City.
Hospedaje Casco Viejo: Located in the historic district of Casco Viejo, this small hostel has great charm and location if you want to stay in an historical setting. I visited this small hostel when it first opened and loved the layout of the place. Great little place with an indoor courtyard and classic Spanish tiles.
Albrook Inn:The advantage of the Albrook Inn is that it is located near the domestic airport. So if you plan to catch a second flight within Panama, then this is a good place to stay. The larger rooms have fridges and other appliances.
B&B La Estancia: Try to stay at the B&B La Estancia in Panama City; it’s has one of the best locations in the City. This small B&B is located in the Quarry Heights neighborhood of Panama City.
The Balboa Inn: This is a small B&B in the old Canal Zone.
Los Cuatro Tulipanes If you want to rent in the old French section of Panama City, then you should check out this site.
Back Packers Panama Located on what use to be Fort Clayton. Inexpensive and nice location.
Places to Eat:
For me the only meal to eat during Carnival is breakfast; you really don’t need anything other than breakfast as the drinks will fill you up and keep you energized. I am not a breakfast person, normally. If the drinks don’t keep you energized, then just snack a little. If breakfast is the most important meal, then the most important element of breakfast is coffee. So when I rate a place to have breakfast during Carnival, coffee first, food second.
Breakfast:
Boulevard Balboa: This place has both an excellent breakfast and great coffee. The restaurant also has a great view of the Bay of Panama and is located far from Carnival madness.
Manolos: Located across from the Hotel Panama and another is located on Via Argentina. Spanish style breakfast place with great coffee and churros.
Pomodoros: If you want to eat breakfast outside in a courtyard, then this is the place. Nice coffee and the best pancakes in Panama. Located inside the Hotel Las Vegas.
Trapiche: Has one of the best and cheapest breakfasts in Panama City. Place is done in a traditional Panama country motif and food and coffee are very good.
Lunch:
Napoli: Best Italian food in Panama. Also great coffee and great pizza and very affordable.
Nikos: 24 hour restaurant that serves, breakfast, lunch and dinner. If you find your self up very late and need food then Nikos is your place.
Athens: Very good pizza shop with great Greek food as well.
Café Ozone: Food from all over the world: Middle Eastern, American, African, Asian, you name the continent, they have food from there.
Punta Barco: Located on the Causeway with a great view of the Canal and Panama City. Come here if you want seafood.
Dinner:
Manolo Caracol:(Photo opposite) Located in Panama’s Old French Section, Manolo Catacol is a great Spanish restaurant. You don’t order from a menu; they just keep bringing you plates of food – all of it very good. Nice wine.
Buzios: Also located in the old French section of Panama City, Buzios is a very good restaurant that has outdoor eating. Nice view of the Panama Canal and located very near the French Embassy.
Masala: Indian food. Very spicy and very good. A bit expensive but worth the money if you want Nan bread and a curry.
Matsuei: Japanese food. Located just down the street from the Parador Hotel. Sushi bar and good tempura and great Japanese beer.
Rincon Suiza: If you are into Swiss food, this is the place. If you like wines then this is really the only place to visit in Panama.
1985: Is the sister restaurant of Rincon Suiza: very good food and wine.
Wine Bar: Very popular restaurant with good itlain food and wine selection. Also popular place to listen to live music.
Gauchos: Argentinean steakhouse. Nice steak with potato and wine. Located on Calle Uruguay.
Martin Fierro: Martin Fierro is another very popular Argentinean steakhouse located near the Hotel Granada. If you like meats, then this is your place.
Ginza: Japanese steakhouse that over the years has become a very popular place to eat in Panama. This is a very popular restaurant among Panamanians.
Places to See:
Bahai Temple: On a wonderful hill that overlooks Panama City and has a view of both oceans. You can only visit in the morning: 6 to 12:00. Nice quiet place to visit during Carnival.
Canal Museum: Located in the old French Quarter. Great old building and be sure to check out the old lighthouse light from Isla Grande in the lobby.
Panama Railroad: Take the train to Colon during Carnival. Great short train ride – 55 minutes. You go past the town of Gamboa, the train passes over the water near the Canal and as you enter Colon you see the local prison. You might want to visit Colon just to see the place. One of the few places I’ve been where there are just about no white faces on the street. Carnival is celebrated with fanfare here. Many people from Colon head to the Western provinces of Panama for Carnival so you might find Colon to yourself after the train ride. Be sure to visit the Hotel Washington and the sea front park in Colon.
Parque Omar:(Photo opposite) If you like to run or walk, then visit Parque Omar. They also have a pool. The park is located off of Via Porras. The park is named after Omar Torrijos after he took the land, which was an elite golf course, and gave it to the people in the form of a city park.
Causeway: Is also a nice place for a run or a walk. Grab a beer at Las Pencas or the new Boat Club. The breezes on the Causeway are great as you wet your throat with a cool beer and feel late evening slip into night as ships entering the Canal pass by in front of you.
Bodega mi Amiga: The first neighborhood I lived in when I came to Panama was San Francisco. I have always loved San Francisco no matter what they do to it. Well, when I lived in San Francisco I became aware of Bodega mi Amiga. It’s a wine and spirits shop. In the days when I lived in San Francisco, Bodega mi Amiga was an open air liquor shop. It moved down the street after I left San Francisco, but its still one of the best places to buy wine and spirits.
Places to stay at the beach
Royal Decameron: The Royal Decameron is still the favorite destination for people who want to enjoy the beach on Panama’s Pacific coast.
Playa Blanca: Located on the Pacific coast, Playa Grande is a very relaxed resort that has become a favorite among vistors to Panama.
Bristol Buenaventura One of the newer beach resorts on the Pacific coast of Panama.
Breezes Panama The famous Jamaican hotel chain Breezes just opened their new hotel in Panama this year.
Coral Lodge Located near the San Blas Islands along a beautiful coastline, Coral Lodge is perfect if you want to experience Panamanian nature.
Islas Secas Very secluded resort near Isla Coiba.
What Not To Do During Carnival
Pace yourself. Don’t act like a German Hessian Barbarian. Get drunk, get sober, visit places, get drunk again and pace yourself. Slow and safe in Panama is always better than fast and reckless, especially during Carnival.
Don’t go looking for something you shouldn’t. For example, something too young. If you go looking for something too young you might find yourself disappeared: you might wonder what the hell I’m talking about; if so, you’re fine.
Don’t be rude or want to be offensive. Panamanians generally don’t want to hear that shit and especially during Carnival.
Where Should You Go After Carnival
If you can afford it go to Providence Island, Colombia. This is the best island in the Caribbean. Also, Cartagena is a short distance from Panama and inexpensive.
Costa Rica is another good place to go after Carnival. Great beaches and this summer should be great fun in Costa Rica.
Where To Find The Real Carnival: Off To The Interior Of Panama
(Photo opposite: Carnival Queen in Las Tablas) If you want to find the heart and soul of Panamanian Carnival, then you need to go to the interior of the country. It’s in the interior where the real beauty of Carnival is found – the dry golden fields, the dusty roads and the large shade trees combined with the freedom of Carnival creates a seductive environment that’s hard to resist. This article is a guide to the different provinces of Panama and what they offer during Carnival.
Los Santos: Los Santos Province is the official home of Carnival in Panama. This province in general likes to party (I’ve been told that 60 years ago in Los Santos, 6 months of the year were dedicated to celebrations and religious festivals) and the biggest party in Los Santos during Carnival is in the capital of the Province, Las Tablas. Normally a quiet, country town, Las Tablas awakens for Carnival and the town becomes a 24 hour blast.
Las Tablas is a small town and there is very little in the way of accommodations. If you haven’t already booked something, the odds are you won’t find anything now. If you want to go to Las Tablas and haven’t made any reservations, then you might want to see what you can find in some of the neighboring towns. Pedasi has a few pensions as does Macaracas; both towns are about an hour or more from Las Tablas: there is bus service to both towns every hour. Also, the countryside around Las Tablas begins right on the outskirts of town. You might be able to rent something in the countryside from a rural family – one Carnival I rented a country house on the outskirts of Las Tablas and it was my best Carnival. Ask around and see if you can rent an Adobe house with a bed and running water for cheap – it will be great fun.
As far as eating during Carnival in Las Tablas there are two options: eat in one of the restaurants dotted around town, which are all decent, or eat at one of the stands that line the streets leading to the main square. My recommendation about food in Las Tablas is to stick to sancocho: chicken soup with yucca or ñame and seasoning. The reason I suggest sancocho is because it is always very well cooked. And because it’s Carnival and everyone is working around the clock, it’s wise to eat something well cooked. Do not eat anything with eggs or mayonnaise, say, like, potato salad: I spent two Carnivals in the hospital with friends that became extremely sick after eating potato salad. Eat food that is thoroughly cooked and you will be all right.
If you’ve never been to a Carnival and want the “real thing”, then go to Las Tablas on Friday night of Carnival and stay until they bury the fish in the ground on the morning of Ash Wednesday. By the end of your time in Las Tablas your spirit will be busted, broken and smashed, but you will have more memories than you can shake a stick at.
Hotels In Los Santos And Herrera
Herrera: This is the sister province of Los Santos. The capital is Chitre and the Spanish traditions are very strong in Herrera. The province is rich in cattle and agriculture. There is a very good Carnival in the main square of Chitre. For me this is the best town for culecos – culecos are gigantic water fights. Normally culecos occur in the morning and afternoon. In the evening everyone prepares for the parades. Chitre is larger than Las Tablas and you might be able to find accommodations. The Hotel Hong Kong is not bad. Food in Chitre is generally very good, especially beef. If you’re a vegetarian then check out one of the Chinese restaurants in town. The drive from Chitre to Las Tablas is about 40 minutes, so you can easily hit Las Tablas from here. The beach is also close by to Chitre. And the desert of Sarigua is also nearby. If you want something a little mellower than Las Tablas, then Carnival in Chitre is a good choice.
Veraguas: This is my favorite province in the interior of Panama. The hill country of Veraguas is without a doubt one of the wildest regions in Panama. The capital of Veraguas is Santiago, a town that is almost always partying in one way or another. A friend of mine who lives and grew up in Santiago told me that at any given time of the day at least 1/3 of the people in Santiago are planning or celebrating a party.
(Photo opposite: Culecos in Chitre) One of the nice things about Santiago during Carnival is the fact that the town has plenty of hotels. You should be able to find accommodations here. That immediately helps to make Carnival a little more comfortable. During the day there are culecos and at night people go to the discos and out onto the streets. There is also an abundance of restaurants in Santiago. Mar del Sur is a good seafood restaurant. Another place you might want to visit in Santiago during Carnival is one of the nearby rivers. On the road to San Francisco from Santiago there is a river where people go during the day to celebrate Carnival. The drive is about 20 minutes from Santiago. Overall, Santiago is a very good place to celebrate Carnival, especially if you want the comfort of a hotel room and laid back atmosphere.
Cocle: One of the better, lesser known, Carnivals, is Carnival in Cocle province. The capital of Cocle is Penonome. Cocle has a large indigenous population and it’s the one province whose capital has an indigenous name rather than a Spanish name. Agriculture in Cocle is well developed and the Province is known to be quiet and maybe even a little boring, but not during Carnival. In the old days, Carnival in Penonome was on the water. The parade was on floats on one of the rivers outside of town. That ended a couple of years ago and now people celebrate on the main street. Many people who want to head back to Panama City after partying all night go to Penonome. Panama City is a little more than 2 hours away; Panama City is within reach. Santiago, Chitre and Las Tablas are too far from Panama City to make a day trip.
There is one big hotel just as you enter Penonome from the Pan-American Highway and there are a number of smaller hotels dotted around the center of town. Food is also very good here. There is a decent restaurant in the large hotel at the entrance of town.
Come to Penonome if you want to be able to hit Panama City: the drive is doable in one shot. If you are staying at the Decameron or Playa Blanca, then this is the best place to celebrate Carnival.
Chiriqui: Chiriqui is the province nearest to Costa Rica; its capital is David. Chirqui is known for not being a place to go for Carnival. No one runs off to David for Carnival. Chiriqui is a little like Costa Rica in this respect. Costa Rica has a little Carnival but they celebrate it for one day at the end of December. Chirqui is not the place to go for Carnival. Go to Chiriqui in March when they have the International Festival; that’s when people really party in Chirqui.
Colon: The capital of Colon is the city of Colon. Carnival in Colon Province is OK. A couple of years ago Carnival was cancelled in Las Tablas because of an outbreak of Hana Virus and so that year people poured into Colon, specifically Isla Grande. I used to start Carnival on Isla Grande and end it in Las Tablas. Carnival originated in the Caribbean so its strange that Colon is not the center of Panama’s Carnival. One reason for this is that it rains a lot along the Caribbean coast of Panama. You will probably get some rain if you celebrate Carnival in Colon.
Bocas del Toro: Bocas del Toro has become a favorite tourist destination; it borders Costa Rica on the Caribbean coast. The capital of Bocas del Toro is Bocas del Toro. Bocas is a popular spot for Carnival, but not one of the main destinations. Again, the problem with Bocas during Carnival is that it can rain. Also, you have to fly or take a very long bus ride. There are certainly enough places to stay and eat but it could rain and that isn’t really what you want for Carnival.
Darien: The capital of Darien Province is Las Palmas. This is really the most remote Province in Panama; it borders Colombia. Las Palmas is home to the oldest African community in Panama. Most people are Catholics and the town does have Carnival celebrations. This would be an interesting place to celebrate Carnival. You need to either fly to Las Palmas or take a boat. The road is terrible.
Wildcard Towns For Carnival
One of the better towns to visit for Carnival is Ocu. The town lies right between Santiago and Chitre. There might be one pension in Ocu; Carnival here is mostly among the local people but outsiders are welcome.
Another town to visit during Carnival is Tonosi: located right at the bottom of the province of Los Santos. Located near the beaches and with plenty of people and spirit, Tonosi is a good town to kick back and enjoy Carnival. The town is about 2 hours from Las Tablas.
Along the Pacific coast from Gorgona to Farallon there are a number of small beach towns that celebrate Carnival. The largest is Coronado and the best is San Carlos.
In Conclusion
Taking a road trip through Panama during Carnival is really one of the best ways to celebrate. Start in Panama City and make your way slowly to Las Tablas. Each day you’ll see how the party changes and how people slowly begin to lose control. By the end of Carnival people are shattered and ready for the spiritual journey from Ash Wednesday to Easter Sunday.
Phone Numbers
If you need some help on your Carnival journey then be sure to have the following web sites and numbers handy.
Here are a couple of numbers you might want to have for Carnival. In the past when I celebrated Carnival there were always some phone numbers that I looked for in the middle of Carnival craziness. Here are a few.
If you are going to be in a remote location and you are worried about having medical care nearby, then you should keep in mind LifeFlight Panama. This is a brand new air ambulance service in Panama. There have been a few companies trying to establish such a service - British and U.S. based companies - but LifeFlight is the first dedicated service. http://www.lifeflightpanama.com/
and number is: tel.+507-315-1770 fax. +507-315-1771 and emergencies. +507-228-8911
You’ll also want the number of the local airlines: Here are the links: Copa: http://www.copaair.com/HomePage.aspx?lang=en
Aeroperlas: http://www.aeroperlas.com/
Phone: (507) 315 7500 Fax: (507) 315 7580
Air Panama: http://www.flyairpanama.com/tickets/
Phone: +507.316.9000
If you need the services of a Travel agent then try Gloria Mendez: http://viajesgloriamendez.com/
Phone: (507) 263 655 Fax: (507) 223 1693
If you are flying into Panama from another country and will be landing at the International airport, then you should have the number for the Tocuman Royal Salon. If you want to pass through the airport quickly, then arrange for this service. The people at the Tocuman Royal Salon will take you straight from the airplane, through customs, and on to their lounge for a drink; after the lounge your suitcases and passports will be waiting outside next to your taxi to the city. This is a very efficient service that eases your entry into Panama. http://www.tocumenroyalsaloon.com/
( 507 ) 238-4171 / 238-4412, Fax: (507) 238-4213
Another number you might want to have is the number for a good rental car agency. Try Barriga Car Rental if you can’t find a car; they’ve always been able to get me a car during Carnival. Here is their number and email: Barriga Rent a Car. 269-0221. barrigacar@cwpanama.net. They have an office right near the Hotel Panama and Hotel Veneto, just down the street from Manolo’s Cafe.
You might also want a number for a hotel in Santiago. I would give you a number for a hotel in both Las Tablas and Chitre, but all of the hotels are by now full. In Santiago try: The Hotel Gran David:998-3123
If you have legal troubles while you’re in Panama or you want to see an attorney, then you should call the offices of Monroy & Troya. I’ve been to many attorneys in Panama, but none compare to this firm for price and honesty. If you need help they will come. Number and link: (507)-265-1165 http://mtalegal.com/home.php
If you come to Panama on short notice and find you can’t make a reservation for the Decameron Panama, then try calling Vacaciones; they are a wholesale seller of reservations for the resort. To call Vacaciones dial 263-7355. After you make your reservation they will ask you to deposit your payment in an account at the bank Banistmo.
Remember that to call another country from Panama you need to first dial: 011-001 - area code/country code - and number.
If you want to buy top shelf spirits, then check out http://www.felipemotta.com/default2.asp
+507 302-5555
If you need medicalcare here are some hospitals in Panama City:
* More Articles on Living in Panama
* Real Estate in Panama
* Banks in Panama - Worldwide Banking Directory
* Universities in Panama - Colleges & Universities listed by Country
* Embassies and Consulates of Panama
fyuh..so much to read, but i like that carnival.
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Comment by Las Vegas Hotel Reservations — January 5, 2010 @ 12:24 pm